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换胆初感记 [复制链接]

查看: 5250319|回复: 13802
4571#

昨天比较无聊,将德律风根6922取下,换上原装6922eh,太难听了,实在难以忍受,很快拔下.
请推荐声音三段比较平衡音色纯正的5ar4,用来替换5ae4eh.
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4572#

偶下了一个硬盘版换胆初感记,哪位老大有密码给一个?谢谢!
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4573#

lianwu 在 2005-4-30 11:24:24 发表的内容
lianwu 在 2005-4-28 7:07:00 发表的内容
lianwu  兄,看到你花了1100元去買這兩枝 MULLARD  膽真令我嚇了一跳,如此成色,連 LOGO  也殘缺不堪,還有膽說保証 100% 全新,JS 真是欺人太甚了。
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fever兄:真是后悔呀!我是在买完之后才看到你们这个帖子的,否则怎么说也得向您请教一番才敢去买啊!兄能否上个全新新品的黄字大盾ECC82管子或是长屏方环(园环)的图片供我学习学习,另上述新管子现在市价大约多少?在哪邮购比较安全些呢?谢谢


呵呵!昨天出差回来跟广州志平的老板通了电话,老板人不错,二话不说,让我把管子退回去给他。不过昨天我把管子插在机子上换掉原来的NEC的管子试了一下,声音真的很好听,特别是在中频部分改善很大,我都有点舍不得了^_^。请问各位DX:在哪能邮购新品的黄字大盾ECC82管子或是长屏方环(园环)的大盾管子呢?谢谢!



lianwu  兄,全新的 NOS  NIB  『白字』 『大盾』 『長屏』 『方環』 MULLARD  ECC82  和 ECC83   市面上已非常難找到了,能找到成色有 90%  以上的也不容易,『黃字』 『大盾』 的市面上還有很多,要找全新的相對也較容易,但為了避免再為 JS  所乘,你還是多慮積點有關經驗才出手吧。
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4574#

谢谢fever兄!看来只好多学习补课了,您能给一个〈硬盘版换胆初感记〉的密码吗?谢谢!
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4575#

[upload=gif]Upload/20055618311547099.gif[/upload][upload=gif]Upload/20055618313141202.gif[/upload]
漏了几张图片补上去
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4576#

lianwu兄:
刚翻看了换胆贴,发觉你上当了!志平看来还是蛮黑的,要小心!买胆有几个最基本的要点,1:看顶,就是有除气剂的地方,要有一定厚度,如能看到屏里的结构,或发白,这些都是老化或漏气的表现,应扔掉了。2:号称全新NOS的管至少应有较新(太新也不可能,老货哪来新盒包?)的配套包装,这都没有就算了吧,如是德根的管子纸盒外面有玻璃纸密封的,如没有那肯定不能叫NOS了。3:JS号称全新,注意胆脚,没上过机的管子都是笔直的,这是毫无疑问的,有一点弯曲都有可能被用过。4:也是比较难的地方,就是看管底了,这要多看才有感觉,去买胆最好带白纸衬在下面,如是用过一段时间的胆,屏和管脚间的那段玻璃上都会有淡淡的褐色,或者玻璃已经不干净透明了,如老化严重则胆底内有灰色沉积物,这种管子都是要扔掉的残货,千万别买。当然4、50年代的老货,有些可能屏底会不太干净,玻璃看上去挺“脏”的感觉,那是当时的工艺问题,这时你需要高手帮你鉴别了:)5、胆码是很重要的东西,只要JS不是白痴,肯定会尽一切可能保护胆身上的密码,因为这是正货胆管身份的特征,有这个,价钱才叫得响啊!老盾,菲利普等老货都有这东西的,具体你可翻看前面对胆码的讨论,买这些牌子的老胆一定要让JS把胆码告诉你,最好有管子和胆码的照片给你核对,才知道货是否对版,不要给JS偷梁换柱了!6:遇到不良JS可以先礼后兵,大多数JS知道你收到东西不对时态度还是可以的,毕竟也是要在网上混的,自己心里也有数给你的是什么东西,你可以要求退货或者换货,实在JS太无礼,也别客气,在他的论坛上或其它论坛上臭了他,以后就别再找他了吧!至于很多老胆的特征,什么一字顶,十字顶,方环,圆环,大环,小环,半水银,多种屏结构,云母结构什么的你就慢慢在帖子里体会吧!FEVER老师可是高人啊,我也是从胆盲过来的,现在是小学水平,要学的东西还太多啊!
最后编辑wyfsh
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4577#

www.audiotubes.com

BRENT JESSEE RECORDING & SUPPLY, INC.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Amperex, Mullard, Philips, and Valvo Tube Codes
MostAmperex, Mullard, Philips and Valvo tubes are marked with a group of symbols which contain coded information relating to the type, place of manufacture or country of origin, and the date of manufacture. Apart from the interest of knowing when and where a tube was made, the code group can still provide useful type identification when the commercial markings have become illegible.
There were two types of code formats that used the same tube type codes, which were in use from 1948 until these companies stopped the manufacture of standard receiving tubes. The code format changed about 1955 or 1956. There are some deviations to this rule, and in certain manufacturing plants not all of the code protocol was followed exactly, with every batch of tubes. Prior to 1955, Mullard used a purely numerical code for encoding the tube type, but then adopted the code change as listed here after that. Therefore, for tubes made after 1955 by all three of these large European manufacturers, the code is fairly uniform and straightforward to decipher using these code lists. Of course, as mentioned above, there are deviations in the code that vary from factory to factory and from year to year. This list is presented as found on original Philips documentation. Brent Jessee Recording makes no claims as to accuracy, and presents this information for your use "as is" and "as found".

THE ELEMENTS OF THE TUBE CODE:

The digits are often found near the bottom of the glass on the side of the tube. They consist of two or three lines of numbers, letters, and sometimes symbols. They will nearly all use the following convention, from left to right, top to bottom of the code group:

TUBE TYPE: This may be one, two, or three alphanumerics or symbols. For example, the code GA means the tube is a type ECC88, which is also a 6DJ8. These codes will be listed later in this webpage. Pretty straightforward, huh? Take notes, it gets stranger from this point on......

CHANGE CODE: What?? Well you might ask. This code appears to be for internal factory use, perhaps to trace various batches of tubes. Like the month code we will see later, we get a wacky sequence of symbols that recycled every three years. They allowed for 15 different batches, and in the years 1948-1950, a batch number 20. This cryptic code was used until 1956. This can be seen on the following table:


Actually, coupled with the unique month codes, you could use the change code to zero in on the year and month of manufacture. Prior to 1956, anyway. For example, a month code of A and a change code of A would be unique to Jan. 1951.

After 1956, the code just became the following numbers and letters that would repeat as required:


0123456789ABCDEFHKLMNPRSTUVWXYZdfmrt
Therefore, batch 0 was 0, batch 1 was 1, batch 10 was A, and so forth until the end of the list. This new code allowed for 35 tube batches after which, it must have repeated from the start again. The year and month started to be used at this point after 1956, so the change code is not really necessary in newer tubes to pinpoint a manufacture date. The purpose of these codes, indeed all of the change code, is unclear from original Dutch Philips documentation. The theory that they pertain to individual batches of tubes or "production runs" seems to be the most plausible, and is the purpose I have accepted as to their meaning.

FACTORY: The factory or country of origin. One symbol only. List is found elsewhere on this webpage.

YEAR: The last digit of the year of manufacture. This is only present in the code used after 1955.

MONTH: The month of manufacture. This gets a little screwy, as before 1955 there was a sequence of 36 symbols used which repeated every three years according to the following table:


In the code used after 1955, each month is represented by a single letter in the sequence shown on the next chart. Remember, the last digit of the year began to be used with this code, and this will help identify post 1955 tubes.


WEEK: This is the actual week of manufacture within the listed month. Obviously goes as 1=first week, 2= second week, etc. Some documents and other sources I have researched indicate this week code was only added from 1961 onwards. It also does not mean that all tubes made since 1961 have the week code. Use the charts below to see if the week codes even apply to your tube.....

HOW THE CODES APPEAR ON THE TUBE: This can get pretty screwy, too. For the most part, on tubes commonly found in circulation today, the code is located on the side of the glass in dark grey paint, down low just above the bottom. It follows this convention before 1956:


TTC
FM
Where TT stands for the one, two, or three symbol tube type code, C is the change code, F is the factory and/or country code, and M is the month of manufacture. On the bottom of octal base tubes the code is usually FM/TTC.

After 1956, the code changed to the following several formats, with the manufacture year (Y) kicking in to the mix:


TTC
FYM

Another variation with the addition of the week of manufacture:

TTC

FYMW

Another variation with a triple tube type number and the week:

TTTC

FYMW

And to completely confuse you, yet another triple type number variation without the week:

TTTC

FYM
The best way to become familiar with these variations on a theme is to get some vintage tubes and practice. For the most part, tubes made after 1956 are what is commonly found on the vintage market today. This will reduce the number of code choices you have, and the tube type codes of the tubes you use the most will become committed to memory, as they never change.

THE FACTORY AND COUNTRY CODES: Often quoted by tube experts, and just as often misread and/or misinterpreted by the same experts. The list reproduced here is about the most comprehensive I have seen after researching original Philips documents (poor quality scans of these are available on various websites on the Internet) and several other partial sources. I have scanned a printed list of the most comprehensive factory/country codes, as they contain a great many symbols not found on the standard USA computer keyboard. Remember, this code element follows the tube type code and the change code, which are always the first two codes in the code sequence.


Still with me? Good. There is more:



TUBE TYPE CODES: This is a huge list. This code is really only necessary if the factory label becomes rubbed off of the tube, so you can tell what tube you have. Otherwise, it just confirms what the label says. Most audiophiles are concerned with date codes and, to a lesser extent, the factory code. This is for reasons of finding tubes that could be put together in matched pairs. It is more likely that tubes from the same date code and factory will match up better than tubes from different batches and factories. But it is nice to have these codes available if you are not sure what type of tube you have. I have decided to post the scans of the original Philips Holland lists that were created at their headquaters in Eindhoven, The Netherlands. It also contains a page or so of the factory codes as well. This is in .pdf format, and is about 1 meg in size. You can either view or download it by clicking on this link (left click to view, right click and select "save target as" or "save link as" to download): Download or view the tube type code list.

Please let me know if you have any questions on using this page. This material is presented "as found" and "as is" for your use and enjoyment. I hope it helps you identify that rare European tube you have been searching for!
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4578#

有个问题向fever兄请教:
   现有电神B-400PLUS台机和威马的一套咸菜、北京叶立老师的8PR胆耳放(输入管用NEC12AU7,输出用8只飞利普EL91(大盾OEM))、森海HD650耳机、美国EQ耳机线,声音表现在动态、高低频延伸方面都较满意,听交响乐特别过瘾。现在主要觉得在听人声有时齿音比较明显,不耐听,不知是新机原因还是其它什么原因?同样的碟片在马机17MKIII和莲的CD加大奥耳机上就没有这个问题(新机自2周前到手就一直通电煲着)fever兄有什么好的建议吗?
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4579#

[upload=gif]Upload/20055618331777306.gif[/upload]
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4580#

wzhj100 在 2005-1-5 23:36:53 发表的内容
FEVER老师,以下是我用的ROGERS E40A的说明:
E-40a綜合擴大機,功率級是八支6L6GT真空管推挽工作,唱頭放大與高電平放大各使用一支ECC83/12AX7雙三極管,倒相使用兩支ECC82/12AU7,陰極隨耦又用了兩支6SN7真空管。
而我在实机里看到的是4只6N3C(9012)+4只6N3C(8911)作推挽;2只6H8C陰極隨耦,2只ECC83唱頭放大;1只ECC83電平放大;2只ECC82倒相.
问提是所有管只能看到型号,却看不到产地和品牌,除了1只ECC83電平放大的写着苏联管.是不是这些管不是跟机管啊?
如果我想让功放音色润些,厚些,低频劲些,我想電平放大换上支大盾或德绿风根ECC83,再换上2支大盾ECC82倒相,可以吗?
那8只放大管和2只6H8C要换吗?作用明显吗?为啥这些管的型号和说明书不同呢?
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